This place does not feel like Seattle. The room is airy, the walls painted tawny. Big windows, white tablecloths and a quaint little outdoor seating area complete with trimmed hedges aid in my disorientation. The space is bright and fresh- it belongs in a city that follows suit. I find it, however, in Fremont.

Once housing the infamous “Still Life”, it has been fully transformed from hippie breakfast nook to a cleanly sophisticated restaurant. The room is set in whites and woods, a graceful little tree surrounded by smaller tables holds as a centerpiece. An archway leads to an offset room, warmer in color (the walls a rich copper red) more private, it houses a large dining table. There’s a bar area as well, a few taller tables sit behind a curtained partition.

I had been here once before this visit, maybe nine or ten months back…I remember having some sort of seafood…salmon? The food was good then but the atmosphere was what really stuck with me. The best single word, I think, in which to describe it- tender. Thursday night, Wes ( my love ) and I, have reservations set for 6pm. I was able to make the reservations online via their website by first submitting a preferred time as well as a secondary time slot. I was e-mailed a confirmation later in the afternoon. This was a first for me, I have always gone the traditional phone ahead route, but this was convenient and personally the less time spent on the telephone the better.

Dinner

It takes a couple spins around the block to locate parking. Inside, the tables are already glowing with candlelight as the daylight is waning. An amicable hostess shows us to our table set in the middle of the room. Its location under a small potted tree gives us a little seclusion at the same time offering a panorama of the restaurant, the big windows capturing a Fremont slide show. Perusing the paper menu, there are a couple things that stand out…the steak frites (new york steak, fries, green beans caramelized onions & blue cheese-$25) & the pan roasted chicken (accompanied by mashed potatoes, seasonal vegetables, pan jus-$17). Both sound pretty straightforward and I figure if they can take these simple dishes and do them well, the more elaborate ones could be trusted.

I start out with a glass of Pinot Grigio while Wes went for a beer (Kronnenberg 1664). Soft music playing (Norah Jones maybe?),there’s around twenty people here - not terribly busy yet tonight, its still early. We chat and place our orders for the chicken & steak. Bread is brought out, slices of baguette with a little ceramic dish of something dark in color seeming gelatinous in consistency. As it is set down our server informs us that the substance is onion jam- onions, black pepper, a touch of honey and wine reduced down to a sort of paste to be spread on the bread. I’m not sure what to expect but am pleasantly surprised. If this is any indication to the meal that follows- tonight is going to be delicious. All the flavors are there although quietly. The onion is most predominant but it is nicely mellowed with the slight sweetness of the honey and the black pepper offers piquancy.

Our dishes have arrived and the presentation is well formed. The portions are about right and the food is colorful. The steak, decorated with caramelized onions reclines upon a raft of thin french fried potatoes. Resting on the side, a small bundle of firm bright green beans. The chicken glows caramel on my plate, young carrots and asparagus its accompaniment.
Wes had asked for his steak medium rare and the kitchen had just missed its mark on this one…cooking it a tad too long. The steak was flavorsome none the less and the fries crisp as the green beans.

My chicken was succulent. The meat soft, lush- the skin fried, brittle and fragrant. The vegetables sat in the puddled juices of the chicken and took on the savory flavor. The textures took over where the simple flavors left off. All the food, from the poultry to the french fries tasted sparingly seasoned. I continued to indulge in the onion jam throughout the meal, going so far as to smear a bit of it on a bite of chicken.

Our meals were basic, unembellished. Each food flavorful in its purity…nothing unanticipated. We take a look at a dessert menu. Each treat is paired with a wine recommendation. I’m not surprised, although the selection of wine by the glass is scant the full wine list is ample. Flourless chocolate espresso torte, gelato, apple bread pudding…we finally decide on the vanilla creme brulee ($6). Glossy and delicate, it sits in a clean white porcelain dish that only illuminates the flaxen glow of its flawlessly toasted crown. It tastes as gorgeous as it looks…not too sweet- the cream dissolving, heavy on my tongue.

Summary

The 35th St. Bistro is a captivating restaurant. It baffled me right away and throughout our meal I felt as though I needed to consistently remind myself that I was still, without a doubt, in Seattle. To feel that removed from an area so familiar is stupefying. The space itself, elegant and clean…the food, sapid while simple… the service, attentive not overbearing. The menu here is ever changing as ingredients go in and out of season and I look forward to what is to be introduced in the Spring. The visit has rekindled my love with Seattle tonight. This city is commonplace to me, I feel as though I know it almost too well- there are times that it skirts on drudgery. However, here at this bistro I discovered a haven that I will most certainly visit again if not for the wonderful food, the refreshment.

Details

35th St. Bistro (map)
709 N. 35th Street
Seattle WA 98103
(206) 547 9850

Flavor
Simple European

Hours
Lunch from 11am Tuesday- Sunday
Dinner from 5pm nightly
Bar menu from 2:30, happy hour from 4-6 weekdays
Brunch served Saturday & Sunday

Payment options
Cash, checks & all major credit cards

Parking
Street & neighborhood…usually not a problem- weekends are a bit more tedious.

Booze
Full bar, wine, beer