Landing in Krakow a week ago, I find myself outstandingly disoriented. Cobblestone streets and primordial architecture, street musicians harping on accordion (folks still play those…weird), horse drawn carriages and very few cars -this cannot be real…it might be a movie set. Next I expected ladies with parasols and gents donning top hats & curly mustaches. Cities just don’t look like this anymore (or so I thought). I figured the modern way of life had reared its ugly head just about everywhere,infesting every larger city with superfluous technology and capitalist brainwash. Taking a stroll into the town square is testament to Krakow’s adversity to mutate with the majority. Rynek is one of the largest medieval squares in Europe and is home to St. Marys Basilica- a jaw dropper of a church. The painted starry ceilings, the intricate stained glass, an exquisitely detailed altarpiece that took a German artist 15 years to create…all overwhelmingly stunning. Nothing, however, can trump the feeling of standing in this space… it chokes me. The smells, the air on my skin, the mumblings of prayer and the flutter of pigeons who have made their home high in the framework…I find myself unsure that I can be experiencing such an impossibility- a moment of what I feel is bona-fide history. This church stands today true to its original time…I have never been witness to anything like it.

Krakow has definitely bowed to tourism in some ways…the carriages are sadly exactly that- a novelty. There are plenty o’ tours promising adventure in & outside the city… historic monuments & villages, museums, more churches. Of course, the restaurants that border Rynek are all geared to corral foreign loot. Interesting however, that in the midst of the tourist economy Krakow seems to hold its shit together as far as not selling out is concerned. Their customs are secure no matter whom is in town for a visit…just try to check out a church while mass is in session or take a photo of something deemed sacred- you will not be treated kindly. I have learned from my visit here thus far that the Polish are less about being polite as they are about being straightforward- yet another thing I can very much appreciate. Its refreshing to experience a culture with a “cut the bullshit” demeanor..refreshing in that it stands contrary to that of the US where its seems being “nice” stands paramount to being honest. In that same vein common courtesy suffers…folks don’t move out of one anothers way- they just push through (same goes for the pigeons- you literally have to nudge them out of your path…wtf?), cars fail to stop for pedestrians and smiles are about as commonplace as vegetarian cuisine.

This city is packed with restaurants- everything from Indian food to sushi and of course traditional Polish fare. Growing up, my Baba (Grandma) prepared pierogi (savory or sweet pockets of dough filled with meat, cabbage, potatoes or berries), golabki (boiled cabbage leaves stuffed with rice, beef & onion baked in tomato sauce), nalesniki (crepes) and a variety of other ancestral grub. I loved it all as a kid but as an adult my tastes and ideals have changed quite a bit. Around here vegetables translates to either cabbage, potatoes,beets or carrots. Iceberg lettuce is as green as it gets…and even finding that is tough. Understandably so, Poland stays pretty chilly the majority of the year so root/ hardy veggies are the sole survivors of such harsh climates. Admittedly…Im spoiled, Seattle is mild enough that greater variety is attainable. So it goes…while Im here Ill have to suck it up within these limitations and hope for the best- maybe learn a new way to prepare beets? Who knows.

I did finally locate a terrific Veggie restaurant. Salvation…jesusgod…after scouring menus for the first few days this place was nothing short of sighting an apparition of the Virgin Mary (maybe not quite as miraculous but it certainly felt that way at the time). Lime walls, exposed wood beams, mismatched tables and the usual hippie bulletin board advertising spiritual retreats and community yoga- all of it a familiar and welcome sight. Green Way is a casual spot that does counter service expertly. The food is healthy & fast, the service friendly & efficient. The food includes juices, pita sandwiches, soups, salads, main courses and desserts. There’s a small glass case on the counter that displays fresh baked goods and an English menu available that makes everything just a whole lot easier. They have traditional Polish foods (placki-potato pancakes, pierogi etc) as well as a smattering of other cuisines. Mexican Stew, soy steaks with gravy, Indian pakoras, enchiladas…all vegetarian or vegan- all good. The main courses are accompanied with either brown rice or buckwheat and salad (this means grated carrots, beats and cabbage- didn’t see that one coming eh?). Ive tried a large chunk of the menu- my favorite dish being Cabbage steaks with gravy. I know…those two words are rarely found in the same sentence let alone on the same plate. Honestly…its very good. The patty is formed from a cabbage potato mixture then coated with bread crumbs and pan-fried (that’s my guess anyway). Finished off with a good helping of gravy it reminds me of a veggie version of classic chicken-fried steak. I may try and recreate this one back home.

Still have some time left here in Krakow. I’m confident Ill be a regular at “Green Way” for the remainder of my visit. Other than that Ill be roaming..exploring churches (there are so fucking many!), peeking into museums, walking down every cobbled street this place has to offer. All the while, sorely missing fresh fruit…defeatedly settling for grainy bruised apples from the corner grocery.