Rain is quickly becoming our citys backdrop again. Its happening fast, this change. Grey- the favorite color, damp- the most familiar sensation. Fall, means leaves tracked into the house & an increase in time spent inside doing whatever it is we do when it gets dark at four in the afternoon- read? Drink? Both, simultaneously? Yes please. 

Here we are with the weather getting cooler, the days shorter and my once abandoned kitchen is beginning to build warmth, feel cozier. During the summer months I ignore my stove- I go as far as to avoid even looking in its general direction. But winter? I live there. I stand near the sink planning my days, I sit on the countertops to eat my meals, I hover over the gas range absorbing the heat, the smells, the magic in the metamorphosis of ingredients. Its perfect. I call it my natural habitat, I like to think of it that way anyway.

Reading & drinking aside (perhaps just for a moment), theres braising. Lovely lovely perfect braising. It is an activity, the activity, that defines the cold months for me. It is what I do and it is all that I want to eat. Recently, a close friend of mine shared a bag of chanterelles. This gift was the equivalent of a bouquet of flowers or a bottle of wine- I swooned. Delicately, I cleaned them and then I admired them…and then I went to work. Oxtails from Jones Farm, rosemary, red wine, tomatoes & a smattering of other ingredients- into the pot. It didnt take long for the aroma to permeate the house. Oh it smelled so damn good. May have been the longest 5 hours of my life waiting for that braise- it just about killed me. 

2#’s oxtail (2-3 inch pieces)

S & P

1-2T grapeseed oil

1 large onion, roughly chopped

2 stalks celery, roughly chopped

1 large carrot, roughly chopped

5 cloves garlic, minced

2 cups red wine

1 cup chopped tomatoes

1 large sprig rosemary

2 bay leaves

6 sprigs parsley

2 sprigs fresh thyme

1# chanterelle mushrooms, cleaned & cut into large pieces

1. Season the oxtails with S & P. Pour a little bit of oil in a pan, heat it up & sear the oxtails evenly on all sides. When nicely browned, remove & set them aside.

2. Adjust the heat to medium high, add more oil to the pan & toss in your mirepoix (onion, celery, carrot). Once browned, add the garlic and cook for thirty seconds or so. 

3. Add a little bit of the wine to deglaze the pan (scrape up all the bits sticking to the bottom), then add the remaining wine & your bouquet garni (rosemary, bay leaves, parsley & thyme- bind them together with a bit of kitchen string). 

4. Place the oxtails back in the pan atop the mirepoix in a single layer & cover 2/3 full with either more red wine, water or stock. Bring to a simmer.

5. Drop the heat to low and cook for 3-6 hours or until the meat is fork tender. 

6. Remove & dispose of the bouquet garni. Remove the oxtail and break up the meat, set it aside. 

7. Puree the mirepoix/sauce (whats remaining in the pan) in a blender- blend until very smooth. Place the sauce back into a pan and add the meat back in.

8. To prepare the chanterelles- heat a pan over medium high heat & add 1T oil + 1T butter followed by the mushrooms. S & P. Saute for 5 minutes or until slightly caramelized.

9. To serve, fold mushrooms into the sauce & serve with pasta.